Best time in Budapest

I arrived at Ferenc Liszt International Airport in the early evening. Since the rental I had booked was so close to the city center I bought a ticket for the airport shuttle, as well as a week-long pass for the city’s public transit system. After a short wait, I made the 40-minute bus ride to Deák Ferenc square. Initially, I was worried about walking my luggage from the bus stop to the apartment, but most travelers did the same. In hindsight, I never felt unsafe walking alone, even into the later hours of the night.

After dropping my luggage off at the apartment I had rented, I set off for dinner. I made the 15-minute walk to Ruben, a restaurant specializing in traditional Hungarian cuisine. Under the glow of the street lamps, I found Ruben unassumingly tucked in a quiet alleyway. With the help of my friendly waiter, I chose a hearty dinner of spicy beef goulash, palóc soup, and flap mushroom stew, with a generous glass of pálinka— the national spirit— to wash it down.

After dinner, I walked to St. Stephen’s Basilica and explored the nearby Deák Ferenc square, a large green space in the heart of the “Pest” side of the Danube. There, I stumbled across a folk music performance, one of a free series held throughout the summer. Fueled by pálinka and the welcoming locals, I danced to Nepzéne until I finally made my way back to the apartment.

I made my way to the Hungarian State Opera house to catch an early performance of Gotterdamerung. I thought the outside of the building was gorgeous as I approached, but the inside of the concert hall took my breath away. The gilded balconies, ornate chandeliers, and the enormous fresco on the ceiling of the hall are worth dropping by to see, even if you aren’t an opera fan.

I then made a short subway trip to Vörösmarty square and my next destination— Cafe Gerbeaud. Opened in 1870 and known for its delicious cakes and grand dining room, it is quite a tourist attraction and had a sizable line. Despite the rainy weather, I bought a slice of their salted peanut and apricot cake and a coffee to go. Both were definitely worth the wait.

I then made a 15-minute bus ride to Buda Castle. This World Heritage site sits atop a hill on the picturesque Buda side of the Danube, a must-see for anyone visiting Budapest. Elements of baroque, art nouveau, and medieval style span the 300-meter-long castle, so there was plenty to marvel at despite the Hungarian national museum being closed. The dreary weather left me able to take in the sights of the castle without the hustle and bustle of crowds.

I took the bus back to Deák Ferenc square and took the opportunity to ride the Budapest Eye while there were no lines—the view from the top of the Ferris wheel was one of the favorites of my trip. For dinner, I went to Drum Cafe a tourist favorite. I finally got to try langos, an ever-popular street food of fried bread covered in sour cream, cheese, and paprika, with a pint of Soprani. I packed my leftovers to go, found a stall selling chimney cakes for dessert, and headed back to Király Street for an early night’s rest.

I got up early the next day to catch a train back to Buda for a tattoo appointment at Raketa Studios. Exiting the subway in Batthyány square, I was greeted by an amazing view of the Hungarian Parliament building. Even if you never need to take the subway to Batthyany Street for a tattoo, the view of the Parliament building and the nearby baroque Felsővízivárosi Szent Anna church is worth stopping over for.

I slotted the afternoon to do some shopping near the city center and stopped to have lunch at Belvárosi Disznátoros, a deli on Király Street. One of the last foods on my Budapest checklist was blood sausage, of which the clerk gave me a whopping serving. Along Király Street, there were many small boutiques and shops to peek into, but my personal highlight was the store Rododendron Art & Design. This cozy shop tucked away on Semmelweis street carried hundreds of prints by local artists, making for the perfect place to stop for a unique souvenir. Lastly, I made sure to visit Pick Deli and buy one of their famous winter salami sausages.

Just in time for sunset, I made my way to the banks of the Danube to take a boat sightseeing tour. The docks were sprawling with boats offering these tours, and I started to think I had fallen for a classic tourist trap. My mind changed completely as we cruised next to the Parliament just as its lights flicked on for the evening. Seeing the enormous gothic-revival building with its lights reflected in the river was breathtaking and completely worthwhile.

I woke up early and took a 30-minute bus trip to Fisherman’s Bastion, a 19th-century fortress overlooking the city. Walking along the walls and looking out of the turrets across the Danube was by far my favorite view of the city. Matthias Church, a stunning 13th-century chapel was a few steps away.

From the church, I took another 30-minute bus trip across the city to the House of Terror, a museum covering the Nazi and Soviet regime’s history in the city. Despite the daunting name, this museum was one of the most somberly unique and immersive experiences I’ve ever had. I cannot recommend the last leg of the museum enough (and don’t want to spoil it!)

After a short trolley ride back to the apartment, I gathered my luggage and used the same shuttle from Deák Ferenc square to return to the airport.