Family Trip to Italy - Rome, Itri, Sorrento & Ischia

We arrived in Rome in the morning and went straight to our small boutique hotel, Crossing Condotti, two blocks from the Spanish Steps, Surrounded by cafes and shops on narrow streets. We went straight to our tour with Daniele of Italy to the Max, at the Vatican. We were full of adrenaline, and since the time change was in our favor, taking a tour was doable despite the 9-hour flight. This was a private tour–and we have no regrets on the higher price tag. We passed long lines of visitors, which was helpful for our crew of all ages. We were impressed by Daniele’s deep historical knowledge of the Vatican City, its artistic and historical importance, and its controversial past. Danielle gave us time to absorb the beauty of the inner corridors, and especially the Sistine Chapel, at our own pace. Daniele dropped us back at our hotel, and we headed out shortly after to Dilla, a restaurant a short 3-minute walk from our hotel. It was great advice from our good friend Trish, who helped us plan our trip, an avid Italian traveler and Travel Strategist travel advisor! *She helped us plan so much of this trip. TY Trish!!! trish@smartflyer.com

We started our day with cappuccinos, sweet bread, croissants, and freshly squeezed blood orange juice from the bakery around the corner. Mattia arrived at 9am for our electric golf cart tour around Rome. Once again, we were so impressed by our tour guide! He took us to the Trevi Fountain–I was so happy to learn more about the Roman aqueduct system and the right way to drink from the "big nose" spouts the way Italians do. We were so lucky to meet up with a precious family friend, Finley, on the streets near our fab hotel near the Spanish Steps. We had lunch at one of the cafes (me-I didn't get the name!), picking it because it was the prettiest. It was a good gamble, and after, we ascended the steps together. We said goodbye and hit the shops. The boutiques in this area are fantastic. It's the perfect place to stay, with so much to do right outside our door. Dinner in Trastevere, at Mimi and Cocos! Antonio and Rasca made our dinner beyond amazing. They loved my husband for his resemblance to Bruce Springsteen, so he was Bruce the entire night. When they learned it was my father's 80th and wedding, our parents’ anniversary, the shots, extra plates of pasta to try (amazing carbonara!!!), and desserts, we floated away and felt truly loved in Italy. We laughed and had a ball as we walked to our Uber. So -much-fun.

Breakfast at the coffee shop around the corner while waiting for our favorite limo company in Italy, Aldo Limos. We discovered this family operation out of Sorrento 12 years prior in Italy. They are first class all the way and priced well. Our driver, Antonio, waited patiently while we finished cappuccinos and delicious bread. We drove 2 hours southwest to Itri, my FIL's ancestral town where his father was born. We walked through the square where the men gathered. I approached a group on the bench and told them I was there with my family-and that we were "Pezzas" and wanted to see the castle. Giuseppe said he knew our family name (and it’s a famous name in Itri) and treated us to refreshments at a small outdoor cafe. He then took "the boys" to his limestone quarry, mach 80. He drove extremely fast through the winding streets, espcially for a 94 year old :-/. We decided it was time to attempt the steps leading up to the castle, which was sadly closed for updates. It was still wonderful to make the trek up and see the beautiful homes as we spiraled up within the medieval castle walls. And, of course, the "Michele Pezza" plaque on the wall, our ancestor who defended the town with particular ferocity, giving him the name Fra Diavolo, meaning "brother devil." We needed to find food before our 2-hour drive to Sorrento but struggled at 12:30 in the afternoon. Luckily, we found the local favorite, I Miserabli, and loved this family-run restaurant and its local vibe. Itri is a town you'd never know about unless you lived there or knew someone who did. People stared at us as we walked by, not a tourist destination. This stop was so special, unforgettable, to say the least! I recommend visiting Itri when they are finished with the castle renovations. The beautiful short drive from Rome or Naples and the winding, steep village and castle are worth the visit! Next stop, Sorrento!!! We arrived early evening and settled in to our rooms at the gorgeous new Hotel Grand La Favorita. The location couldn't have been better–in the midst of everything yet removed one block, peacefully existing within the most energetic, beautiful town I've seen. I’d only once driven through Sorrento toward Positano and remembered thinking, “Why are we passing this special place by?!” We chose Sorrento because it isn’t as steep as Positano, making it easier for our parents to navigate. We escaped for a bit to the adjacent narrow walkways filled with shops and vendors. I absolutely loved the shopping in Sorrento, the prices are reasonable, and you don't realize how special the goods are until you leave- my advice, don't miss out, buy it!!

We had a magical dinner on the hotel's terrace at sunset, with views of ornate rooftops and the sea. It was the perfect ending to a perfect day.

Knowing we had a boat ride down the Amalfi, we awoke early and enjoyed the vast, free breakfast of our wonderful hotel. Sidenote on La Favorita–each room was graced with a free bottle of Limoncello and a soapdish/soap. The rooms were a good size and decorated with painted tiles and frescos on the ceiling. The bathrooms are large, too–definitely the most luxurious room of our stay in Italy! We took the elevator down to the port (5 minutes from La Favorita, and you have to pay), although there is a great walking ramp with gorgeous views. Begin the best day of our trip: our boat ride down the Amalfi with the wonderful captain, Mauro!!!! I found Mauro on Facebook and was attracted to his tour based on the stellar reviews. That was the best decision ever. He was super friendly and laid back. We luxuriated on the front of the boat as we made our way toward Positano. We had the choice to either tour around Capri or head down the Amalfi Coast. We had a plan to take the ferry to Capri later on in the trip, so we decided to check out the Amalfi and lunch in Nerano, Maruro’s hometown. He took us to special swimming spots and the best blue grotto (beside the famed Capri grotto). My daughter and i swam to the back of the grotto which was magical. We jammed our favorite music, and our parents soaked in the gorgeous views. When we arrived at Nerano, we needed to take a smaller boat to get to the restaurant, right over the water, Lo Scoglio. Mauro didn’t prepare us for this rich experience, nor mention this was one of Stanley Tucci’s stops on Finding Italy!! Fresh fish and lobster, and a crowd of race car drivers and elite yachties. Best people-watching...ever. We returned to our hotel, only to hear from Mauro. We left a pair of sunglasses on the boat, which he happily delivered to us a bit later-which was so great because we met his precious baby girl and beautiful, sweet wife. The people you meet on a trip make it all the more special-we will be back Mauro! Delicious outstanding pizza at Aurora, right on the main piazza in Sorrento (Mauro's recommendation :-)).

After another great breakfast at Hotel Favorita, we soaked in the beauty of the grounds-disbelieving lemons could actually be so big. We then waited in line, almost the first people there. We realized, on this windy day, it was not so necessary as we sat inside the boat. We boarded the hydrofoil to Ischia, an island off of Naples. We arrived at our hotel in Lacco Ameno, San Montano Resort, a gorgeous Mediterranean resort set atop a mountain overlooking the med. I was immediately taken by the 360-degree views and stunning grounds at this hotel and thermal spa. The island is made of volcanic rock, and thermal spas are abundant. The San Montano alone has over 15 pools, where you can melt your cares away because no one can touch you there! It was a dream. Immediately, my daughters and I explored the grounds and found pathways to pools with no one in sight. Lemon groves and olive trees were built into the hillside. It was surreally gorgeous, and I couldn't help but think how the gorgeous photos on the website didn't even do this place justice. We sunned at pools that afternoon, enjoyed a cocktail or two, and finally dragged ourselves to our rooms to change before dinner at La Veranda, their in-house upscale restaurant. Sunset that evening was magical, as was the view from our dinner table. It was our first dinner getting to know the wonderful staff who we would get to know so well over the next 6 days.

I'm always one for a free breakfast. Breakfast at the San Montano is expansive, delicious and so well staffed–you are catered to, and every request is granted! They even had an additional menu with dishes like eggs Benedict & Avocado toast-still free! We also noticed that the same crew from the night before was on staff...this professional crew works so hard during the busy season. We decided to hit the beach club in the small inlet below the hotel. It was the best beach setup I'd ever encountered. There was a beautiful cafeteria-styled restaurant or the more casual walk-up with the best panini sandwiches. And they made a great Aperol Spritz. We stayed at the beach most of the day and enjoyed the sparkling emerald waters. We purchased an inexpensive hat for our burn patient (Jeannie from the boat) on the walkway to the beach, which came in handy. We ventured into Lacco Ameno that evening for dinner at Piccoletto and were treated very special as Francesco from San Montano knew the crew there and made our reservations. The dinner was fantastic–fresh redfish linguini, mushroom pasta, and pizza for the kids. We were treated to limoncello shots and learned the uncle of the owner/manager played piano at our hotel. We enjoyed after-dinner drinks in the lobby bar, our first night to enjoy the exceptional talent of the resident piano player, Enso. **Enso, thank you for making us all stars!!!

We started this special Father’s Day by heading to Sunday mass at a beautiful local church, Chiesa di Santa Restituta in Lacco Ameno, just a 5-minute ride down the winding hill from our resort and in the piazza. The second time I attended mass in Italy (the first at St. Peters Basilica 12 years ago), I was reminded of the ceremony of the catholic mass and how you can follow along despite not knowing the language. This church was absolutely beautiful, small, and filled with locals, and I could feel the vibrant community spirit. We left and hit the many shops of Lacco Ameno. There were upscale shops along with more affordable shops where we found some great jewelry and dresses for the girls and gifts for friends at home. After some R&R back at San Montano, we headed to Le Stufe for a magical dinner at a spot atop a hill built into the wall of a hill. It was a steep walk up, which was harder for some in our party! Still not sure why the taxi didn't drop us a bit closer. Views and ambiance are exceptional. Beautifully rustic with exceptional views. We watched the sun go down at our special table and lookout. The food and service were fantastic!

I headed down to the beach with Francesca while the others hung out at the pool. The hotel has its own umbrellas at the beach. Stunning views and the water in this bay is crystal clear. We visited the snack hut again for our favorite panini sandwiches and smoothies. There was another restaurant that served more traditional lunches, cafeteria style, with tiled tables in a building, a beautiful setting, yet we preferred the picnic walk up. Negombo Thermal Park was nestled behind the beach–at first, it appeared to be a pool for a resort. It was a thermal park, kind of like a water park for kids, but this was geared for adults. It was absolutely beautiful. The wonderful front desk staff at San Montano gave us free admission wristbands to explore. I couldn’t help but notice their swim shop with really cool bikinis and cover-ups, so much better than you can find in the States.

We headed back and took a 25-minute Uber ride to Ischia de Ponte to visit the majestic and surreal Castello Aragonese d'Ishcia. First, you cross the narrow walkway to the castle entrance, lined with large rocks and sunbathers. The castle fee, such a deal, was 10 euros and kids under 18. We were so please the castle had a lift, so our parents could access the upper levels of the castle and we could explore together. However, the ancient walkway up to the top was awe-inspiring. In the dark, cold tunnels, you could sense the emotions from centuries of arrivals—some met with excitement, others with fear. We happened upon a room dedicated to torture devices and weapons of defense, like the ancient catapult, which was so fascinating we went back a second time. The grounds and cathedral ruins up top were stunning and adorned with vines and flowers. The cafe up top was a perfect way to take in the breathtaking views. I stayed to explore longer with two of my kids, and we discovered lemon groves, vineyards, and a tiny church precariously positioned off the side of the castle, far above the sea. I could not believe the freedom and access we had to explore this castle. This is not to be missed in Ischia!!! We explored Ischia de Ponte, the charming town at the base of the castle. Another night cap at our favorite lounge and more singing and fun with Enso at the piano.

We boarded the 10:30 fairy boat to Capri. We spoke with the concierge, who reserved space for us at the La Canzone del Mare Beach Club. It was on the opposite side of Marina Grande, the port of Capri. A woman on the boat offered a tour service where one could take the bus around capris, visit the best shopping areas, and enjoy lunch. Our parents opted for the ease of this tour, and we decided to walk up to the top of Capri versus taking the funicular. It was a great exercise, which I was craving. We walked through the main piazza at the top through the most beautiful luxurious stores. We made our way by foot down to the beaches on the walkway via Kruppe, which was a stunning walk to the La Canzone Beach Club. It was gorgeous. I was taken aback by the hefty price tag of the entrance fee, $100 per person, but $50 per ticket was applied for food and drink. We realized this was our best option after

seeing the small public beach and our desire for chairs and a little space. The club did not disappoint; it had comfortable lounge chairs on its deck and excellent poolside service. Their small beach (all of the beaches are small and pebbled) was surrounded by beautiful rocks and so easy to swim. The views of the yachts and boats were gorgeous!!! We ventured back to the port that afternoon in a fun convertible taxi. I found myself wishing for a night in Capri because that's when the stars come out-literally and figuratively. After arriving back in Ischia via the ferry that night, we had dinner in Forio, on the other side of our hotel from Lacco Ameno. The restaurant forgot my meal, and the gnocchi was drowned in an OK sauce. This was one of several restaurants on a strip. I honestly cannot remember the name! That is probably why I didn't make sure to get it. While we had a great time, and I snapped my favorite photo of my son, we preferred the town of Lacco Ameno for a nearby meal near San Montano.

We decided to all hit the beach together on our last day. One strange hiccup of the San Montano Resort is they wouldn't allow our family of 7 to rest comfortably at the beach next to each other. It's a strange rule, which I still cannot wrap my head around. We all wanted lounge chairs where we could lay flat if we wanted. They only allow two beach umbrellas per family, no matter how many you are, with two flat and two sitting chairs per umbrella. Half of the beach umbrellas were vacant, a Wednesday and cloudy. So, 4 of us were under two umbrellas because my daughters and I wanted flat beach chairs. For this, we were punished, and our other family members were seated at umbrellas 5 spots away from us. We still enjoyed ourselves, though. We had a wonderful dinner at the hotel again and a splurge at La Veranda with the best view and staff!

One more incredible breakfast at San Montano!!! I woke up and ran around the property for last-minute views. We took the 11 ferry to Naples. We needed to spend this night in Rome as our flight was at 9:30 AM the next morning. Antonio, our wonderful driver from Aldo Limos, was waiting for us at the port. He had the best idea to take us to get pizza on our way out of town as we headed back to Rome. One of our best meals of the trip was at a little restaurant in Naples called Cafe Moreno!! This was a family operation, feeding the busy working people of Naples on a side street you'd never know unless you knew Antonio, our driver. Since it was summer, their kids-from age 10 and up, were helping with taking orders and getting us sodas from a nearby cooler. They were the most adorable kids and family...and the pizza was incredible!!! We made our way to Rome, arriving at our hotel, Qc Termeroma Spa And Resort. It was an old estate turned into a (VERY) unique spa and hotel. Our rooms in these very old buildings were classic and comfortable. We changed into our robes and decided to explore the grounds, with therapy thermal pools and a great happy hour, robes only allowed (over suites), no clothes. The kids thought this was super weird, and I encouraged them to keep an open mind! I reminded my judgy kids that the Romans were famous for the baths, a social activity in ancient times, and this was a cool, modern take. We were given vouchers for the happy hour in a small, modern building in a garden area beyond the pools. We gathered back the building where we were staying, and enjoyed a very nice dinner to celebrate our last night. The setting was very nice, and you could imagine the estate as it once was. After everyone settled in, I explored the property and found a huge underground spa under the building where we checked in. There were plunge pools, hot pools, steam rooms, and more. I found some stairs and went up to a "relaxation area," where there were rooms dedicated to a "stable" experience, with horse sounds, bail of hay settees, lots of plaid fabric, and a real antique carriage. There was a "column" room beyond this, with dangling chairs from the tall ceiling and friends chatting. I found the lady's locker room and decided to shower there instead of waking my husband. There were pumps with facial moisturizer and different types of body moisturizer available, and perfume as well. It was fun to share my experience with the family in the morning!

A huge advantage of staying at the Qc Termeroma is the prodximity to the airport. It's 5 minutes away, which is really kind of crazy. You feel like you are in the country, and then...there's the airport! Early morning, skipped the free breakfast sadly at the hotel, and ate pastries and had cappucinos at the airport. There is a great duty free shopping area at the airport, and it's pretty easy to navigate.